Holi Elephants

We just spent a week in Rajasthan.  This was the week of Pesach and Easter in the place we come from, but in India it is the week of Holi, the festival of colours, celebrated on the day prior to the full moon following the spring equinox.

Kali and Beverly in Conversation

Our first day was spent getting up close and personal with elephants.  We spent an afternoon at an elephant village getting to know an elephant called Kali, whom we fed, conversed with, washed and rode bareback.  It was a special and calming experience to interact so closely with this magnificent creature.  It was lovely to spend time with the elephants and their Mahouts (handlers); who form a lifelong bond with each other. 

We were not too disappointed to find out the following day that the Annual Elephant Festival, which had been the original reason for the timing of our visit to Jaipur, was re-branded as the Annual Holi Festival and there would be no elephants involved.   PETA had managed to stop the parade, which in the past included elephant polo, elephant tug of war and painted elephant beauty contests.  So things can change in India.

Not our photo 

Which brings us to the actual celebration of Holi.  What better way to brighten up a spring day than throwing paint around and getting drunk?  Well, the locals and tourists of a braver disposition had great time.  We were warned that it can get dangerous out on the streets, so we observed from a safe distance and enjoyed the festivities second hand.  We did not get anywhere near close enough to take pictures.  In fact we only heard what was going on, which was LOUD and we certainly saw the aftermath on the people who participated.  

Namaste

Jeff and Beverly in Rajasthan

Not a Typical Week

Rosewater anyone?

On Monday we went to our first Indian wedding.  We were invited by one of Jeff’s workmates, the brother in law of the groom and it was imperative that we attended.  What to wear?  Well, the little black dress would be rather understated, but, not being ready to try a sari, I bought a brightly coloured and beaded pashmina, an armful of bangles and some sparkly dancing shoes.  I was still was seriously under-dressed, but very comfortable.  Jeff wore a coloured shirt and some chinos.   Not too shabby. 

The party, at an outdoor wedding venue that would make the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree feel naked, was event number three of a four day program.  Jeff, myself and Catharina (a friend and colleague from IKEA)  arrived around 9pm to join 300 or so guests, along with whom, we got the opportunity to meet the bride and groom, have our photo taken, contribute cash to the musicians, eat copious amounts of amazing food, dance like crazy people and witness some ceremonial rituals.  We gave the couple some Kosta Boda Swedish crystal, but everyone else gave envelopes; not sure if this was a faux pas, perhaps we will never find out.  

The Bride and Groom

The groom arrived on a white horse heralded by drummers and trumpeters and fireworks were ignited at random intervals.  The bride looked like a queen with henna patterns on her arms and feet. Rose petals and rosewater was sprinkled, garlands of marigolds were exchanged  and there was lots of Hindi chanting and singing.  We, along with most other guests, left at around midnight before the pandit (priest) arrived to perform the actual marriage ceremony, which was due to happen at 3am along with more fireworks, singing and dancing.  It was a lovely evening and everyone seemed just as interested in us as they were the bride and groom.  It was a lot of fun, and on reflection, much more “organised” that I had expected.  

"All it needs is some blue and yellow paint." said Jeff

During the week, whilst Jeff has been discovering the building sites of Delhi (of which there are many) I have been going to the gym, shopping in the markets for food, meeting other expats at book club or coffee mornings and generally keeping myself busy apartment hunting and visiting tourist sights.  The weather is getting much warmer and is now around 25 degrees Celsius, requiring lighter clothing.  I am not yet comfortable enough to wear shorts and tee shirts as the locals are still fully covered wearing jackets, socks and scarves.  I think when the temperature hits 35 degrees, bare arms and ankles will be revealled; let’s wait and see.

Not the synagogue

On Friday night we went to Synagogue, partly out of curiosity and partly because it was time for some memorial prayers.  Jeff turned up wearing his grey Akubra looking very much the part and they invited him to take the service.  Of course he declined and the locals did the honours.   There are only four local Jewish families and we did not have a minion (10 adults) so we couldn’t say kaddish (remembrance prayers) anyway.  It was quite an experience.  We managed to follow the service and joined in as much as we could, singing along familiar prayers to some unfamiliar tunes.  Not sure they will see much of us again, but I’m glad we went.  

A rooftop terrace somewhere in Delhi

On Saturday we had a more Aussie experience at a BBQ at the home of someone we met through the ANZ Association.  This was at a ‘farmhouse’, a free standing house surrounded by garden on the outskirts of Delhi.   It was great and we met some really nice people.  We could have been at home in the back yard with steaks and snags.  Far removed from the Delhi we have been describing in other posts.  

Sunday morning we watched the Swans get beaten by St Kilda.  AFL streamed live on the ipad sitting on our Indian veranda in the sun, so life has reached a certain type of normality here.  Shule, BBQ and footie all in one weekend.  Feels like we never moved.  Just need some familiar faces around and life would be perfect.

Namaste